Sassolungo

Guided tour on the Sassolungo

The longest normal route in the Dolomites

The Sassolungo (3,181 m) is one of the most striking peaks in the Dolomites and a historic site of classic alpinism. It was first climbed in 1838 by Paul Grohmann with the mountain guides Sepp Innerkofler and Peter Salcher.

The current Normal route is a classic Alpine ascent with all the typical characteristics of the Dolomite normal routes. Despite moderate technical difficulties, the tour is by no means to be underestimated and requires experience, a sense of direction and a solid level of fitness.

The starting point is the Demetz - Hut which we can reach by cable car or on foot, where you can also stay overnight if required.

From here, the approach leads over scree and rocky slopes to the start of the route. The climbing is mainly in the II. to III. grade (UIAA) and follows a natural route through chimneys, gullies and intersections. The terrain is brittle in places and the protection is sparse, which is why independent belaying and safe handling of alpine equipment are required. The crux (IV-) is a steep tower shortly before we reach the summit via an exposed ridge. We mountain guides know every rock and piton here.

The route is long and sometimes confusing. Good orientation is crucial, especially in fog or changeable weather. Arrival at the summit is rewarded with an impressive panoramic view of the Dolomites - a real highlight for every mountaineer.

As is usual in the Dolomites, the descent is via the ascent route. Here too, concentration and surefootedness are required right to the end. The best time for the ascent is between June and September, in stable weather conditions.

The Sassolungo normal route is a classic Dolomite tour for experienced mountaineers who are looking for a serious, original alpine challenge.